Please confirm you want to block this member. Does it make that much difference to your gauge? Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn. A lot. Twist is then inserted only as the fibers exit the draft zone, not concurrently as in our woolen-spun yarns. Knit using the same needles and in the same style that youll be knitting the garment (i.e., flat or in the round). This was a great post. Sign up for our email list and get 10% off your next order in the MDK Shop! November 2013 SpoinnersAdvent We consider it one of the finest worsted weight yarns out there. Examples of Woolen Spun:Cascade Eco+ Merino DKCascade BFL, Examples of Worsted Spun (not a complete list):Malabrgio RiosCascade 220 Superwash. They will drape differently, hold shape differently, feel differently to the hand, and interact differently with the light. October 2020 April 2014 March 2020 In most cases, semi-worsted and semi-woolen yarns could often be confused for the same thing. January 2015 A quick aside to address the words we use here. January 2016 Also softer than woolen yarn after carded. The unique 12-ply construction means that garments drape beautifully and afghans and warm weather accessories have a cushiony soft bounce. There are other ways to make woolen spun but this is the classic method. Another essential characteristic of woolen-spun yarns, according to Respect the Spindle by Abby Franquemont, is that twist is allowed to play an active role in drafting the fiber drafting refers to when the fiber is pulled slightly to open up and lengthen the fiber structure before being twisted. They are the same weight and have the same number of plies. Your explanation of the 2 ends of the spectrum also makes it very easy to understand our process and resulting yarns. August 2020 How about giving us more names of worsted and woolen yarns currently available? The Merino and Corriedale wool is gathered from Midwestern farms right here in the United States. Long draw is for making a woolen-spun yarn. Interesting point I would like to know that too! Woolen spun yarns are in the production of sweaters, carpets, tweeds. Although there is broad agreement about the extremes of woolen and worsted spinning, no firm consensus exists on what precisely defines the vast middle. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. If your allergy is very specific (e.g., you cant do wool, but you can do alpaca, or you cant handle linen but youre fine with cotton or bamboo), itll be easier to substitute than if your allergy is more broad (e.g., you cant do any animal fibers at all and have to use plant fibers, or vice versa). Note: We will specifically explain the commercial woolen- and worsted-spinning methods employed by the mills we work with. November 2022 As a last resort, if the designer has published their contact information, consider reaching out to them if you have questions about yarn substitution. Check out our worsted spun wool selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. Hours: Mon-Fri from 9am-4pm MT The photos were such a vivid illustration of the difference between these two types of drafting and their results for your knitting. Theyre great for items that wont get a ton of friction while youre wearing them and that you wear against sensitive skinthings like hats and cowls. The Windham is more uniform and sleek looking even with the inherent visual softness of the Merino fiber. You have made it so clear to me. If you ever created your own cord or unwound a hank of yarn, then that's the exact same process. Worsted is used to describe the thickness of a yarn (worsted weight), one way fibers are aligned before becoming yarn (worsted preparation), and how twist enters fiber to become yarn (worsted drafting). June 2020 However, because commercial spinning techniques necessarily developed out of hand spinning techniques, the terms described here may also be familiar to our hand spinning friends or applicable to those interested in handspinning. Woollen yarns are used for flannel, tweed, melton, knitwear and felt. February 2023 Thedoffer, a large cylinder at the delivery end of the carder, then relays the batt into acondenser, which splits the batt into several thin, untwisted strands calledropingorslivers(sly-vers). In the videos below, I'm using hand carded alpaca. Take a look at the picture in this section. Woolen spun and worsted spun are references to the way the yarn is actually spun in the spinning process. Keep up with her exploits at jillianmoreno.com. Wrap your yarn firmly, but not tightly, around the item for at least a few inches, and then set it down next to the ruler. They may not be able to get to yours quickly, or even at all. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. Heres a thread on Ravelry discussing it: https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/techniques/3930171/1-25, Really impressed by the author. Yarns which Stretch It isn't just a question of being one or the other though, there is a continuum of spinning structures with true worsted on one end, true woolen on the far opposite and lots of semi-worsted and semi-woolen yarns in between. Just like cotton worsted is not always better than woolen. On Ravelry, you can go to the (Ravelry link) Projects tab on the pattern page to see other versions of the hat knit by other people. To begin the spinning process, apickeris used toloosely separate large masses of fiber into smaller onesand to mix the heathered shades of our woolen-spun yarns. Cheers and Thanks. December 2015 To produce our heathered colors, the scoured fleece is then dyed in a range of intensely saturated base solids, which are then blended together during the spinning process using percentages of the base colors unique to each colorway. If you end up having to make a major substitution, remember that plant fibers tend to be heavier than animal fibers. When you look at yarns, hunting for worsted vs. woolen, some are obvious from across the yarn shop. If youre really comfortable with doing a lot of math, making adjustments on the fly, and pulling out your work if you decide you dont like how it works, then feel free to experiment with a yarn of a different gauge. August 2019 Instead of carding the fibres they're combed. If you want knife-edge stitch definition, go for a worsted drafted yarn. Thank you so much Katie. One method is not better or worse than the other - just different. 5 sts / inch on size US 7. Its knit using one strand of fingering-weight wool yarn and one strand of lace-weight silk-mohair yarn. In the production of Quarry, which was inspired by unspun yarns, we skip the process of spinning the individual plies of yarn and instead nestle together three strands of roping drawn out to the right thickness, before gently twisting those strands together in a mock twist. The fibers of a worsted-spun yarn are first straightened and then oriented in the same direction, making the yarn smooth and shiny, which gives your knitted fabric lots of stitch definition. In this blog, we will take a closer look at worsted and woolen yarns and what sets them apart. June 2014 Have you ever pet a puppy in that super soft spot at the base of its ears? December 2022 Worsted-spun yarns are known for being more durable than their woolen-spun counterparts. Theres also Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy, just saying. September 2018 Woolen and worsted are two different classifications of wool fabrics and yarn. The fibers in stitches knit from woolen-spun yarn seem to literally bloom into the space theyre given. God Bless. February 2016 The yarn surface is brighter and cleaner. Wool fabrics can be classified by their production technology the worsted and woolen one. Thank you for your thoughtful and careful drafting, and especially the photos! March 2015 But not always. Congratulations on shedding light on these two styles of spinning that are so confusing for many spinners. Sometimes, those individual strings are then twisted together to form a stronger, denser yarn. Stitch definition. This video of a Navajo Weaver has long been a favourite of mine. For example, a yarn labeled 2/fine (often known as fingering or sock weight) can have a WPI of anywhere from 12-18. Thank you for this insightful article. April 2020 Check out our worsted woolen spun yarn selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. This was the only blog with a long windup that was not only worth the read but also genuinely funny rather than trying too hard. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. KitILove Thanks! Because there is less air trapped in the spun fibers, the resulting yarn is dense, smooth and resistant to abrasion. When this "worsted spun" yarn is woven it produces fabric with these qualities unlike the more common woolen-spun wool yarns available to handweavers. When youre choosing a substitute yarn, try to get one with a similar fiber content so your end result has the same fabric characteristics. Thank you! Gauge: 5.5 sts / inch on US 6. That meant the hat could be knit at a much looser gauge than I would normally use for a fingering + lace combo. Thank you for explaining what it actually means. This has just lit a light bulb in my head. Prepare to fiddle with needle sizes and maybe make a math adjustment or two if your chosen yarn doesnt quite match the gauge in the pattern. June 2016 Chances are, from the end of your batt the fibres are being fed in to the yarn along the direction of the yarn, and not at 90 degrees. The choice truly only depends on what you enjoy working with, what kind of fabric you want to achieve, how you plan on wearing the finished object, or all of the above. May 2021 Put up is the way your yarn has been bundled up. To read the applicable privacy policy, please. You can see the difference when its wound into a ball, and in the strand. January 2014 But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience. Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. Learn how your comment data is processed. If Im knitting a gansey to last more than a few years, and want fantastic, crisp stitch definition, Ill choose a worsted spun yarn. When dyed the same color, woolen and worsted drafted yarns wont look the same. January 2022 AC Business Ventures LLC, DBA Nitro Knitters. Multiply that over the many inches of a knitted item, and well, you can see how subbing in a yarn with a WPI of 12 for a yarn with a WPI of 18 could be a bit of an issue. These carded strands are lofty, lightweight, and trap a lot of air. March 2016 May 2019 From that basis it's pretty much impossible to create a woolen yarn, which relies on trapping hairs perpendicular to the direction of the yarn This Targhee-Columbia wool blend comes from Wyoming sheep, and the fiber is fleece-dyed (dyed before spinning), which is made visible in Shelters thirty-two heathered colorways, especially the darker ones with lighter hues intermixed. When it comes to choosing between a woolen-spun yarn and a worsted-spun yarn, there really is no right or wrong answer. Ideally, you want to get accurate stitch and row gauge. It was a cotton-acrylic blend that was great for items that will get heavy use. You absolutely do not have to use the same yarn recommended by the designer for a pattern. November 2016 All Rights Reserved. With your information I can now choose wisely, thus ensuring my yarn/pattern will be completed. Spun worsted style, 2 ply, ~12 wpi, 183 yds/4 oz. Original Yarns The Empire is more uneven looking, a little airier as well as fuzzy. April 2022 These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc. July 2021 This is extra work youre asking them to undertake, and knitting patterns are already underpriced. We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. Thanks. Yarnsub is a great resource for substituting yarns from larger companies! The next step after preparing the fiber is to add twist, as this is key to making yarn twist traps necessary energy and tension into the yarn, increasing strength and, in most cases, elasticity. Shop our 50% Off Online Workshop Sale! March 2021 August 2013 Now I can shop for yarn with a little more knowledge. Everyone already said what I wanted to, so Ill just add that Tom Hardy is my Happy Place, no matter how hes spun. Flywheel is light and airy and lends itself well to both lace projects and warm, cozy sweaters. However, the cost of carded woolen yarn is lower. Worsted yarns are spun with all the fibers aligned, making a smooth and dense yarn with more sheen and drape. A drumcarder can also be used. The combed wool is then sent through a pin drafter several times, resulting in the wool sliver becoming progressively thinner with each pass through the machine. Drop me a line any time. Thank you! Woollen spun woven fabrics are thicker and heavier and used mostly for outerwear. If you are unsure or curious about the outcome of a particular stitch pattern, swatch it. It makes yarn that is smooth and dense. Bonus points for great pictures to make everything visual and extra clear. September 2014 The project aims to restore the hydropower installation to produce clean energy from the waterway that runs under the mill. Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors. The yarn is spun using the woolen process. Its important to know WPI because there is room for variation within each of the yarn weight categories. Worsted ( or ) is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. Its an old method too and goes well with fiber that has been prepared for spinning by hand. UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? Getting a yarn thats labeled with the same weight as the previous yarn is only part of the challenge, though. worsted-spun. The simple, pure honesty of her yarns, paired with a buttery softness and delicate texture, enchanted me. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. If you can only achieve one, though, choose accurate stitch gauge. Left: woolen spun yarn | Right: worsted-spun yarn b) Single ply, 2-ply, 4-ply, and 8-ply. Want to try out some wonderful wool yarns? To help you do that, Ive written out this guide to things you should consider before choosing a new yarn for your project. Woolen yarns have variable fiber arrangement In woolen spun yarns the fibers are running in multiple directions, like a cloud. Well it's all a matter of different fibre preparations, and different spinning techniques. The squeeze of drafting a yarn worsted brings fibers closer, for greater depth of color, and the smoothness of the surface reflects light, intensifying the color and shine. One way is controlled; twist is brought to the fiber like a gift. Theyve both got their benefits and drawbacks, which Ill cover next. Your email address will not be published. But once knitted and blocked, a further bloom will take place, and the resulting fabric will be light and lush; cozy and insulating. April 2021 Understand that some designers are buried in messages. The difference between worsted-spun and woolen-spun yarns lies in how the fiber is handled before the actual spinning. One method is not better or worse than the other just different. the fiber(s) used. You explained it so well. This information is just wrong as to pilling. Woolen yarn consists of fibers of varying length that are carded so the fibers are not parallel. On the other hand, dont feel bad if you just want an easy knit without too much thinking involved. Now I know. 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Thank you!!! September 2022 On the other hand, worsted yarn is spun by combing fibers. If you're looking for something that's super warm but light, a woolen spun may be better. Bees What you do need is to know what youre doing if you plan to change things up. I guess I thought it referred to the ply, like 4-ply. Scouring,the process in which fleece is cleaned, removes dirt and excess lanolin from the raw wool. Block it the same way you plan to block the finished knit item, and set it somewhere safe to dry. If Im knitting a Fair Isle sweater and want it to be warm and have colors that are little blurred at the edges to blend well with each other. This means that they'll have very clear stitch definition, as opposed to woollen spun yarns which have a softer stitch definition. A woolen yarns loose, lofty structure traps and holds air, making it warm and light, but the air between the fibers allows them to abrade quicker. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other. This post of part of my Spinning with a Purpose series, sharing swatches I've created for a. Any suggestions? I think Ill need to read it over a few times to really get it, because there is so much information. September 2015 October 2021 This means, how many individual strands were used to form the thread. The yarn on the left has multiple strands of yarn plied together, while the yarn on the right is a single ply of fiber. The worsted process means mixing all short hairs out of fabric. Brooklyn Tweeds Arbor (Targhee wool, worsted spun) and Shelter (Targhee/Columbia wool, woolen spun) are perfect examples. Trust me, they r super different in thickness. But just to make things tricky, it's entirely possible for a yarn to be both woollen and worsted, generally when a previously spun woollen yarn is re-spun using the worsted technique, creating a so-called semi-woollen or semi-worsted yarn. If the ratios are close, youre more likely to have a good match for substitution. Goodness, though, was it ever the wrong choice for this one. It does however produce a lot of waste fibres (though those can still be carded for a more textured yarn). My thanks also. NOW I KNOW. Before you go subbing in your new yarn, though, think about the following issues. Want a refresher on the difference between worsted-spun and woolen spun yarns? By clicking Accept, you consent to the use of ALL the cookies. Oh thats right! August 2022 In stockinette its *really* obvious. February 2018 Maurice Brassard Cotton Computer Color Numbers. Perfect. June 2013 The same process squeezes out the air making it not as warm. Well-twisted yarn spun of long-staple wool which has been combed to lay the fibers parallel, used for carpets, cloth, hosiery, gloves, and the like. Brilliant exposition, Katie! Ill explain what these things are, first, and then talk about why theyre so important. Dye baths are created using a precise calibration of dye, temperature, and water flow to protect the lofty, softness of the wool and to ensure the colors are repeatable with every new dye lot. September 2016 . yarn weight is one of the key elements that affects the gauge, Shoes for Showing Off Handknit Socks: Six Suggestions. Now I can make better informed decisions when selecting yarns for a project, and now that next trip to my LYS will really become an adventure! At the roping stage, the fibers are of irregular lengths, jumbled and nestled together in every which way. Whats more, the acrylic content made it much lighter and softer than many other 100% cotton yarns. July 2013 Appreciate the info. And now for the tricky, but crucial, part of yarn substitution: making sure you hit gauge. A worsted spun yarnwhere fibers are smoothed and air is squeezed out while it's twisted into yarnmakes a heavier yarn, since the crimp doesn't have much space to move around. Worsted style spinning got me 183 yds from 4 oz. Heres why: when the fibers in the yarn irregular in length and nestled together in every which way are soaked in water during the blocking process, they get the chance to relax, and then they readjust and mingle with each other even more as they dry, creating a solid and cohesive piece of fabric.

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